Beside my building space they have started to build a shop. So the big entrance is blocked and we just can use the small one in front of my land. That means that the mainhull, sidehull, beams and cockpit have to be brought to the beach and glued together there.
The windows and hatches, the anchor winch and the chainplates are in place. Now we finish the cockpit. I hope we can finish painting next week. I also have to start with the rig then. I wanted to buy the whole rig from Rolly Tasker, one of the biggest sail and rig makers in Asia, but they refused to do the work because they said they do not want to make experiments. So I will make the mast from wood. In the internet I found some measurements of masts of similar size and similar sail area. That should be strong enough. I will make it in birdsmouth system from a local wood that is quite flexible and light. On one of the pictures you see the wood for maststep on top of the deckhouse.
One of the pictures shows the underside of the cockpit with the inside construction before it is covered with plywood and glass.


We started building the mast this week. Unfortunately there was not a lot of long wood available and will not be in the next weeks, so we had to buy some 3,5m planks also what caused a lot of scarfing. To cut the “birdsmouth” we lent a big router and fixed it from under the worktable so we could slide the battens over it. After some correcting grinding we fitted the battens together without glue to see if they were correct and if the clamps we got made work well. I was not satisfied with these so we tried spanish winches. They are strong and cheap. One every foot or closer was needed. We took it all apart again and glued it then. The blue tape on one of the fotos marks the two battens that got no glue so we can take two halves apart and sand and epoxy the inside and glue in a plastic pipe for the wires. In the center of that picture you see the light from the other side. The mast is straight.


Inside the boat the floor is finished now. I took 4mm plywood in teak design (I think it is only a paper on cheap plywood) glued it on the existing floor, cut slots out with a router and filled them with white epoxy filler. Two coats epoxy, sanding, urethane varnish, finished. The holes are over the water tanks. I will glue in covers in plastic and put round plates of the same material as the floor on top.
Tomorrow we will glue the two halves of the mast together. We have to clean them and sand off some epoxy drops before. I bought halyard exits in stainless for the outside and in plastic for the inside (they did not have enough for both in stock) so the halyards to not chafe on the wood. The yellow pipe contains the wires for the navigation lights and is glued in every meter with a piece of fibre. One person is actually working on the mastfoot, the masthead and the fitting at 7 meters heigh where the halyards for the small foresails go in and a pole going down to the side hull to support the mast sits.
Blocks under deck where the clamps sit are glued in, the switchpanel and wires for the lighting inside is nearly finished. I see light at the end of the tunnel.


Just two pictures from the finished floor and the finished mast.
The mast was about one month work for one man including constructing the masthead and mastfoot in stainless. Only the halyard exits and the rollers were bought. I don’t know if one month is a lot of time for a hollow wooden mast of 11.25m length and 15cm diameter at the mastfoot constructed in birdsmouth fashion. It is epoxied three times inside and outside and coated with urethane varnish three times. It has five halyards, three at the masthead and two at 7m high. Electric cables are in a pvc pipe glued inside the mast. Do you know if that is a normal building time?
Under the floor are the water tanks. Inspection holes are round plastic openings. I put a plastic sheet on them and poured epoxy filler on it, put a piece of fiberglass into and pressed the 4mm plywood with the same design as the floor on it. So I have a strong cover over the plastic openings that fits exactly.


New on this picture are the furling rollers, one on the deckhouse for the foresail, one on the windward side of the foredeck for the genoa. They are self made by our boatbuilder and mechanic Him. They are heavy and strong and cheap compared to the ones to buy at the chandlery.
Also new is the cover of the rudderbox (dark wood) with the short tiller in stainless and the tiller extension in aluminium. The pipe is just laying there to show how it works. The two lines from the rudder stock back are the downhaul and the uphaul for the rudder.
The line from the leeward side of the deck across is the foresail sheet of the foresail of the other bow.
All lines are not the real ones, they are only for showing and arranging the blocks and fairleads.


On the mast support over the entrance are two double rope clutches and two small winches. I hope I can get the halyard tight enough so the stay will get slightly slack. I don’t have a profile in the luff of the foresails so I can roll them in to change sails and can lower them to stow.
On the beam is the same arrangement of fittings as on the other beam exept there is the top of the water inlet.


The bimini has arrived today. The yellow colour gives something happy and friendly to the boat.

The position and anchor light at the top of the mast is made of two three coloured and one white small light. I mounted them one on top of the other, the two position lights 180 ° turned inside a plastic box. The bulbs I changed to LED bulbs. In the cockpit I have a switch to change them when I shift to the other bow. This is probably not after european or us regulations, but in southeast Asia nobody cares, as long as there is a light (some fishing boats have flashing red, blue or green lights, sometimes alternating in all colours, what can give you a kind of christmas feeling).

The mastfoot has a hinge so I can lower it over the side hull if I need. The mast is about 60 kg, with block and tackle I should be able to lower and raise it.

What is missing still to launch her is a lowering arm for the outboard under the cockpit, the pole from 7m high of the mast to the side hull and the steering system must be finished. Mid of next week is launching.